As it spread along ancient trade routes, the Middle Eastern tradition of skewering and grilling cubes of meat sparked incarnations from Indonesian satay to Japanese yakitori. Rich with local seasoning, the various styles conveyed their own sense of place down to the bamboo rods or long pieces of flat metal rotated above the flame. For the modern cook, they offer distinct advantages. Small pieces of meat cook quickly, allowing dinner to be on the table in a snap. In the heart of winter, or anytime a grill is not available, the high heat of an oven does the trick beautifully. This recipe highlights the savory and smoky end of the…